KARACHI:
In a city teeming with flashy new openings and formulaic café menus, Da Noi brings something far rarer to the table: restraint. Located in Karachi’s ever-expanding upscale dining circuit, Da Noi feels like a restaurant with nothing to prove and everything to offer. From its minimal Bauhaus-inspired interiors to a menu rooted in refined simplicity, this is certainly not your run-of-the-mill eatery.
We started with the roasted bell pepper soup, a velvety, indulgent opening note. While the pepper’s smoky essence played a more supporting role to the soup’s buttery base, the overall effect was comforting — exactly the kind of richness Karachi’s cool evenings call for. The garlic bread alongside was excellent: crisp, fragrant, and generously portioned.
The citrus quinoa medley arrived next, looking like a summer garden in a bowl. Bursts of watermelon, the crunch of candied walnuts, hints of maple, and the slight bitterness of rocket all played their parts. The quinoa could’ve used more spotlight, and the “citrus” barely made itself known; the salad, on the whole, was a well-balanced starter and marked a welcome departure from the overdressed greens seen elsewhere.
From the appetisers, the seared beef with spicy soy glaze stood out. Served medium, the meat was tender, with a delicate char that gave it an earthy edge. The soy glaze was amazingly just as fiery as the name might suggest, the umami competing with the spice, which worked well in its favour. Even for diners not typically drawn to red meat, this dish makes a strong case.
The sundried tomato grilled chicken was another crowd-pleaser. Juicy, flavourful, and plated over a generous bed of fresh rocket and feta, the dish offered depth and texture. The baked potato on the side — crispy-edged and fluffy inside — was an especially welcome touch. This is the kind of plate that satisfies with its generous portion, but never feels overwhelming.
If the meal had a weaker link, it was the pesto prawn linguine. While the prawns were cooked just right and the serving large enough to rival most mains in the city, the pesto lacked brightness. A squeeze of lemon or a little more seasoning might have added dimension, but it’s a small complaint in an otherwise well-thought-out spread.
Dessert came in the form of a cheesecake with fruit compote, or rather, fruit scattered neatly over the top. While purists might expect a true compote, the cheesecake itself was rich and decadent, with a biscuity base that delivered exactly the crunch you want at the end of a meal.
Verdict: While the spice doesn’t always deliver the bold heat it promises, Da Noi’s strength lies in its sophisticated, velvety layering of flavours. This is a restaurant that trusts its ingredients and pairs thoughtful cooking with attentive service and an ambient dining experience truly considerate of its guests.
Rating: 9/10
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